There are no Eskimos. Those people are Inuit. Their basic language is Inuktitut. Eskimo is a poor nickname.
Any fine-grained wood which is too difficult for comfortable carving with gouges and knives.
Ebony, Iron-wood, Tagua nuts cut like gem stones.
Serpentine and Alabaster, even Steatite soap stone would be a lot of fun with a Dremel.
I use folded sand papers to 1,500 grit and CrOx/AlOx on the edge of leather for honing.
I read that there are several different species of Siberian Tilia sp.
The trees are not common so the wood must be expensive.
I would try local woods such as beech (Fagus sylvatica).
Conifer woods are very common but split easily. Always look at the count of annual rings
15-30/25mm is good. Less is too soft, more is hard but can be carved.
I have been carving conifer woods for about 20 years now. I can stop before they split!
If you can rub it off with your thumb, it is mold. I expect that you will carve it away so do nothing more.
If you want to clean it up and kill the mold, find some chlorine washing bleach.
Mix 1 part bleach with 9 parts water. This is used to sterilize biology laboratory benches and tools.
It kills everything, HIV included.
Just paint it on and let it dry, the chlorine will evaporate.
I have some big pieces of willow (Salix sp.) that had mold as they dried. Bleach killed everything.
From over here to over there: I wish you all peace and good health in the coming year.
Wonderful bird. It is very simply a Christmas penguin. Will you paint it?
Outside, under some sort of cover, but not cooked in a shed, I expect wood to dry at a rate of 2.5 cm per year. Western red cedar and yellow cedar and paper birch don't crack very much except for the ends. I expect some losses so I cut these pieces off.
Cut a wooden wedge from the back, the ugly side of the log, all the way down the center. This relieves a lot of drought stress. All totem poles are made this way, they are meant to be seen from one side and the other side is cut off to reduce cracks. Otherwise we will carve through the cracks and ignore them.
A very good result.
Hello Rainer: Yes, you are correct about the red cedar and the copper. Microsoft Translate is working very well.
Thank you so much, Zillertal, for the information on the translator. I have been fighting with Google Translate to make it do what I want =
write in my English, translate to German and then paste and post. Google makes some strange words in translation. I am getting used to wood carving gouges being called "irons."
Rainer Berndt: The wood is the old block of western red cedar on the right side in the first picture.
The dots you see are pure copper metal inlays made from the rivets used to assemble horse harness.
BergischerLoeffel: Your English is fine. My German is 55 years old and would embarrass us both.
All that is left to be done is the final detail shaping. The copper signifies wealth and prosperity.
As you can see, there are corn cob designs and the dish stands upon 4 feet, about 8 mm high.
With the outside design finished, I used a 18mm Forstner bit to rough out the central part of the inside.
A.ll the sloping ends will have to be done with gouges and knives.
I have learned that the next phase is to complete the outside.
I.will carve the inside last.
F.or the design, I looked at Central American corn/maize stone alter designs.
There is no reason to need a lathe to make a dish.
The First Nations from here in the Pacific Northwest never had lathes and nobody cared.
I. have no lathe yet I carve dishes of several sizes.
The first thing to do is to select some wood. These shake blocks are western red cedar.
The fresh and colored ones weigh about 18kg, the old weathered block is dark brown and maybe 10kg.
They are 60 cm tall and split to follow the grain with no knots whatsoever.
The old block needed to have clean surfaces and end cracking sawn off to maybe 45cm.
I use Google Translate for German language.
There are some 500-600 species of oak (Quercus.) Maybe 60 in the United States, 11 in Canada.
The carving exhibits the delicacy of the oak anatomical features. Being a mix is an even better generalization of "oak."
First Nations here in the Pacific Northwest split alder and birch logs to maybe get 2 bowls.
Sealaska publishes several books showing how to carve such bowls, masks and hats in the Tsimshian & Tlingit styles.
True, it is easiest to remove the inside wood. That is why I say do that last, not first.
That inside wood supports the shell as you carve the outside. You can screw it to the bench in that waste wood.
Titebond III and Gorilla glues are food safe when fully cured. However, they lack thermal stability
for hot drinks in kuksa. It should never be difficult to find wood for cups in one piece.
You arrange the carving design to do the least amount of work across the grain.
You have no choice. Yes, it is a lot of work. Carvers see that.
First, you carve the outside. That uses the strength of the inside wood to prevent chipping.
Last, you carve out the inside.
Here in the Pacific Northwest, large and small food bowls are all carved the same way:
Imagine the wood log is a cylinder. Fresh wood is much easier to carve than seasoned wood.
The dish is elongate, an oval shape. Standing on end in the log with the bowl toward the center of the log.
From the outside, you are looking at the bottom of the dish.
If you cannot find a good log, then a glue-up of pieces must be made.
Nice to meet you and welcome.
I carve with the common tools used by the First Nations people of the Pacific Northwest.
You can see some in the Showcase. The usual chips and shavings.
Any sawing or sanding, I do outdoors in the summers.